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EXCELSIOR, YOU FATHEAD!

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March 25th, 2006


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04:04 pm - Review
There is, nestled in the famous foothills of this region, a bright and sharp little treasure. This culinary jewel in the scrub shines forth to the gastronomically-inclined among us -- those of us who gave up on this area, long ago, after Espirito closed up shop. Well, he's back, and this time he's brought friends: comedians Doug Peavey and Larry Eldrich, and the three of them have some serious shoes to fill. But how does it stack up? The answer isn't as bad as you thought.

I started on light, airy notes of wild berries, blossoming into a full-bodied palate-filling taste with hints of cinnamon, chamomile, and fresh-cut grass, leaving a lovely afterglow reminiscent of peach and rum. My companion did not choose poorly, either, and was rewarded with complex textures and dream-like cinematography from Muhler, who proves just what he can accomplish when he's paired with the right director.

But what makes the trilogy fail, ultimately, is the stunning lack of vision and the clunky, amateurish presentation. I'm sure when Bobby first saw the square-shaped spoons, he thought it was a good idea, but try the lobster bisque. For a landlubber, he sure can act like a crusty old salt when the need arises. They bring nothing but the same old stale sitcom plots, rehashed into a blend of sugary strands around the curving, flowing silk lines that is Holly's trademark, and I couldn't have asked for a better finish. Later, as the kids were busy exploring the video arcade next door, I relaxed on the terrace with one of Captain Jacques' signature margaritas. For a souvenir, you get to keep the haunting memories of Alessard's score, all arpeggios and mustard on a fresh-baked bulkie roll.

Given the plethora of lackluster offerings this season, I can state quite emphatically that you could do far worse than encourage them with your money, but that's praising with faint damns. Attention to detail combined with top-notch yet subtle service make this one of the holiday's happiest, hilarious hits. Yule love it!

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[User Picture]
From:fancycwabs
Date:March 25th, 2006 09:25 pm (UTC)
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Well, now I know what I'm doing this evening. Thanks!

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